Muriel Pemberton (1909 - 1993)
Muriel Pemberton was a trailblazing British artist, fashion illustrator, and educator who fundamentally changed the landscape of the 20th-century fashion world. As the founder of the first-ever fashion course at St Martin’s School of Art, her legacy lives on through the generations of world-renowned designers who trained under her guidance and those who continue to train under the diploma she pioneered.
Early Life:
Born and raised in Tunstall, one of the six towns of the Potteries, Pemberton’s talent was evident from a young age. She attended the Burslem School of Art, training under the influential Gordon Forsyth. She was accepted onto the diploma course at just 14 years old—the youngest in the school’s history.
From Fine Art to Fashion Pioneer
Her journey continued at the Royal College of Art (RCA). Originally studying Fine Art under William Rothenstein, Pemberton soon realised her true passion lay in the intersection of textiles, clothing, and art.
She transitioned to the Design department, where she studied alongside British art icons Eric Ravilious and Edward Bawden, as well as the fellow Burslem-born Head of Design, Reco Capey. This unique blend of fine art training and design rigour became the hallmark of her signature style.
Defining Central Saint Martins
In 1931, Pemberton was invited to teach at St Martin’s College of Art (now the world-famous Central Saint Martins). It was here that she pioneered the UK’s first dedicated fashion diploma. As a tutor and Head of Faculty, she nurtured the talents of many of the 20th century’s most celebrated designers, establishing the college as a global powerhouse for fashion.
A Career of Prestige: Vogue and Beyond
Pemberton’s professional accolades were as varied as they were prestigious:
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Vogue Magazine: Served as Fashion Editor.
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News Chronicle: Fashion artist (1945–52), covering the elite Paris and London collections.
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Exhibitions: Her work was shown at the Royal Academy, the Leicester Galleries, and internationally across the USA, Japan, and China.
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Recognition: She was a Fellow of the Society of Industrial Artists and an Associate Member of the Royal Society of Painters in Water Colour.
In October 2016, her enduring appeal was highlighted when two of her oil paintings were featured and highly appraised on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow.
The Connection to Barewall Gallery
Barewall Gallery rediscovered her story and link to the area in 2015 via the artist Ivan Taylor (a distant relative). Adding to the local connection, her childhood home in the Potteries is now occupied by a local pottery manufacturer and neighbour to the gallery.
Today, Barewall is proud to offer a selection of Muriel Pemberton’s stunning mixed-media works. We also collaborate with the Chris Beetles Gallery in London,who have published a beautiful hardback book detailing her life and interviews.
